Preserving beauty

There’s a lot of concern in the beauty world about the use of preservatives. The general consensus is that reducing the amount of preservative in products is a good thing–and I agree, up to a point. Preservatives are used in cosmetics for a very good reason–applying spoiled or contaminated products to your body is risky. Yeast, mold and bacteria are real threats to skin–and especially to your eyes. The problem is, it’s not always possible to tell when a product is spoiled. Some of the most dangerous bacteria in the world are the best at hiding their presence. So what’s a skin care user to do?

Once you’ve opened a “wet” product (a skin care product or foundation, as opposed to a powder blush, for example) the clock starts ticking. How do most people apply a moisturizing cream? By sticking their finger in it. You’ve just introduced bacteria. Even if you use a spatula to avoid contamination, you need to use a sanitized spatula. Germophobes can use a metal spatula (a small butter knife or cheese spreader works fine), wash it and immerse it in a jar of isopropyl alcohol (a “wet sanitizer” in the parlance of the Board of Cosmetology) between uses. (Yeah, I didn’t think you were going to do that.)

Another simple way to avoid contamination when applying small amounts of a creamy product is to “tap” your fingertip lightly on the product and use just what adheres to the fingertip as you lift it away. The product that touches your finger is lifted out, along with more uncontaminated product that clings to it. This only works with fairly “wet” creams that have body but will cling easily. This can get tedious if you need more than a small amount.

Here are some easy ways to keep your products fresh and safe.

• Once you’ve opened a skin care product, use it within one year. If you’re concerned, you can write the date you open it on the container with a Sharpie. If you’re using your skin care regimen properly, this should not really be an issue.
• Organic products and those with all-natural preservative systems may have a shorter shelf life. Consider refrigerating them. (Brrrr!)
• Products that can be dispensed with a pump or spray have a longer shelf life, but the maximum time I ever keep a skin care product is 18 months.
• Unopened products generally have an 18 month lifespan. (Why anyone would keep an unopened product for 18 months is a mystery to me!)
• Discard old products regularly and ruthlessly. People tend to accumulate samples, thinking they will try them “someday.” Be sure to date these. Generally speaking, the tinier the container the faster something will spoil.
• Throw away mascara at 90 days. This is one of the most important products to monitor for freshness. An infection in your eye can blind you.
• If a lipstick or gloss smells like rancid oil, throw it away. Rancid oil is one of the most carcinogenic substances you can ingest. I notice that not many people know what rancid oil smells like. Educate your nose!
• If you have foundation, body oils or lotions that smell even slightly rancid, throw them away. Rancid oil subjects your skin to a horrifying amount of free radicals.
• Don’t re-use or refill skin care containers unless you can sterilize them first. That means boiling a glass bottle or jar. (Yeah, I thought so. Recycle it.)
• Powder products (mineral foundation, eye shadow, blush) last longer than wet products. But even these are vulnerable to contamination. Don’t keep powder products longer than 24 months. The oils that are used to compress powders into cakes can rancidify too. It’s a good idea to sniff your powder products periodically to see if you can detect any rancidity.
• If you keep a set of products in a travel case or at a vacation home, be sure to date them and discard them when appropriate. If you are transferring products into travel containers, get fresh containers yearly. Products that are filled by manufacturers are done so using rigorous sanitation standards. Products you transfer are probably not! An empty travel container purchased at a drug store is not sterile.